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Jiangnan Lidong custom crab Club

DailyBird Culture 2021-10-09 1 0

"the autumn wind starts, and the crab feet itch." in late autumn, the crab is fat, yellow and full of oil. The peak season of folk crab eating in China begins. Since then, until the beginning of winter, fat crabs are common seasonal delicacies on people's tables. In China's Jiangnan region, in the past, people also liked to hold "crab eating meetings" in late autumn and early winter. People ate them and kept their lips and teeth fragrant. Then let Lao Huangli introduce you to the custom of the beginning of winter in the south of the Yangtze River: Crab eating club.


Cai Yun, a Gongsheng in Suzhou in the Qing Dynasty, left a Wu Song and sang: "winter brewing is famous for its high October white color. Please see the wood broom hanging on the eaves. For a while, wine is about flavor. You don't love the round navel, but only the tip." the first sentence mentioned that winter brewing is most famous for its "October white", while the last sentence turned to hairy crab, which is the thing with wine, saying "you don't love the round navel, but only the tip". It turns out that the shape of the navel is the simplest way to distinguish male and female hairy crabs, in which the female crab is the round navel and the male crab is the pointed navel.

generally speaking, female crabs have crab roe, which is more respected. Then why does Cai Yun, a native of Suzhou, love to eat male crabs? The reason lies in the word "October". By October of the lunar calendar, the roe of female crabs has grown stronger and less juicy than that in September. At this time, the male crab paste is just plump and plump. Once you take a bite, the crystal white crab paste can stick to your teeth, with endless aftertaste.


recorded the popular hairy crabs at that time in the Qing Jialu: "there are several kinds of crabs. Those that come out of Taihu Lake are large and yellow, and their shells are soft. They are called" Lake crabs ". The winter moon is fatter and more beautiful, which is called" October males ". Shen Jieshi:" fat into Jiangnan, October males. "Those who come out of FenHu Lake in Wujiang are called" Purple bearded crabs ". Mo Dan's Suzhou Fu" Note: "it's very fat. It's as big as a catty." Lu fangweng's poem: "Wujiang crab with its navel in the air."

"those who go out of Weizhou village in Kunshan are called" weichi crab ". Those who go out of Changshu pond are called" Tantang crab ". The shell is soft and the claw fist is shrunk, and they are commonly called" golden clawed crab ". It can be seen that the most famous crabs in the south of the Yangtze River in the Qing Dynasty are Suzhou Taihu crab and yellow crab." FenHu crab in Wujiang, weichi crab in Kunshan and Tantang crab in Changshu. Today, Yangcheng Lake hairy crab, which is famous at home and abroad, had not found a bosom friend at that time.

Sun Jinhao, a Kunshan native, was also a gourmet at that time. He wrote a seven character long poem "eating crabs", which said: "in the past, fish and meat are wasted, sharp and salty. The gourd is really greedy when he eats the green cauldron, stove and Gu. Nine females and ten males can speak the spectrum, from which he can enjoy a deep cup. The pride is not reduced. Who is the supervisor of Jiuquan county?"

This poem means: "I always think about eating fish and meat, but I don't know that the hairy crab with pointed navel and round navel is the best in the world, which makes people taste more than sour and salty. As soon as the hairy crab is put into the green kettle on the stove, my glutton salivates. According to the tips of eating female crabs in September and male crabs in October, I'm happy to raise my glass and drink."

In the last two sentences of this poem, the "Bi Li Department" mentioned by sun Jinhao is the first person in Chinese history who enjoys popularity because of his love of eating crabs. According to the records in Shishuoxinyu and the book of Jin, Bi Zhuo, a native of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, once served as a minister of officials. During his tenure, he was drunk and neglected his duty, so he was demoted.


however, this gentleman not only didn't change his attitude, but also said proudly: "when the wine is full of hundreds of Dendrobium boats, he can put both ends of them at four o'clock. Holding a wine cup in his right hand and a crab claw in his left hand, he can float the wine in the boat for a lifetime!" it means that as long as he can drive a leaf of the boat and put food and wine in the boat, he can hold a crab and raise a glass in one hand, his life will be complete.


in fact, Bi Zhuo, who was born in an official family, had already seen the ugliness of officialdom. Out of dissatisfaction with the dark politics at that time, he lost confidence and had to escape politics with this madness. He and Ruan Ji, who is good at making green eyes and Zhang Han, who misses perch and Ulva, are actually one kind of characters.


Bi Zhuo's stories were regarded as typical examples of being far away from politics in later generations. In the Southern Song Dynasty, it was difficult to pay for the imperial court's high aspirations, and Xin Qiji, who was depressed and frustrated, once filled in the song of water melody, saying: "break my life, hold a crab on the left and a cup on the right. Buy a mountain and plant a cloud tree, and smoke at the foot of the mountain." his helpless feelings for the imperial court's policies are obvious.


since the Ming Dynasty, from the imperial court to the people, people love to hold crab eating parties. The palace Ci of the Apocalypse written by Qin Lanzheng of the Ming Dynasty said: "the crabapple flowers are quiet, and the purple crab is fat before the night feast. After you wash your face gently with the soup of jade bamboo shoots and Su, you will see the butterflies flying all over the plate." Xu ANGFA also wrote a palace CI about the crab eating Club: "the French wine is divided into the fragrance of autumn dew, and the crab claws are first split into white frost. The butterflies are made into silver bowls, and the Su leaves pour out the soup for washing your hands."

It can be seen from the two poems that when eating crab, not only the cups and lamps were overlapped, but also the crab shell was put together into the shape of a butterfly after eating, which is much more powerful than just putting the crab shell back to its original shape.


in the 38th chapter of the dream of Red Mansions, it is written that Xue Baochai invited Jia Mu, Sister Feng and others to the lotus root champs to enjoy GUI drinking, fish watching and crab eating. Poetry was also created after the crab feast. Baoyu wrote: "holding pincers is more fond of the shade of osmanthus, throwing vinegar and beating ginger to be crazy. Taotie Wang sun should have wine, but the rampant childe has no intestines."


are more "throwing vinegar and beating ginger" than "Taotie Wang sun", which is really ecstatic to the degree of "being crazy". However, although the crab is delicious, it has accumulated cold. It is in line with the wisdom of people's daily life to ask for an appropriate and keep some thoughts.

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